Everywhere when people celebrate something important in their lives, food and it’s preparation is an important part of the ceremonies. And Easter’s no exception.
In Greece for example, Good Friday is a day of mourning and no cooking is done on that day, so it is on Easter Saturday morning that preparations start for the festive dinner on the night of the Resurrection. They cook ‘maghiritsa,’ a soup made from lamb tripe and herbs, and roast lamb, often on a spit. Maghiritsa is also eaten just after midnight on Easter morning as people return from church. They make the sign of the cross by candlelight over the front doors of their houses for good luck and gather to crack red eggs and eat the soup. There’s a festive atmosphere everywhere and people eat and dance until late into the night.
Lamb (or kid) is associated with Easter everywhere because Christ became known as the Lamb of God. But the idea of the sacrificial lamb is much older. Pesach means ‘passing over’ and the Israelites marked their doors with the blood of a lamb to prevent the Angel of Death killing their first- born in Egypt. Their doors were therefore ‘passed over’ and Jewish temples began to sacrifice lambs ritually to mark Passover.
But it is the exchange of eggs which everyone – especially children – think of as the real mark of Easter. And as often happens in religious ceremonies, this is a tradition that’s much older than Christianity. People have exchanged eggs in the springtime for many centuries before Easter was first celebrated. They’re ancient symbols of fertility and the Seder meal incorporates a hard-boiled egg as a symbol of new life. From the earliest times, the egg has been a symbol of rebirth in most cultures. Nobles wrapped eggs in gold leaf, while the rest of us coloured them brightly by boiling them with the leaves or petals of flowers.
Decorating and colouring eggs for Easter was a common custom everywhere in England in the middle ages. Eggs were brightly coloured to mimic the new, fresh colours of spring, and this still done in the traditional way in northern parts of England, where the custom is called ‘Pace Egging.’ The name’s clearly derived from Pesach and involves putting patterned designs on hard boiled eggs. The background colour is provided by onion skins, with designs created by leaves and flowers placed next to the shell.
The ancient Persians also painted eggs for Nowrooz, their New Year celebration falling on the spring equinox. There are a great many rituals associated with eggs, mainly dating from medieval times in Europe, usually involving decorating, throwing or rolling eggs, or hiding them for children to find them.
To ancient pagans the egg’s oval shape represents the eternal cycle of seasons. In their tradition, the egg’s yolk symbolises the sun-god, and the egg-white and pale shell represents the maiden goddess. Their sacred marriage was said to have occurred at the Spring Equinox. Egyptians buried eggs in their tombs as did the Greeks, and a Roman proverb states ‘All life comes from an egg’. It’s probably no surprise that Christianity should also adopt the egg to symbolise the resurrection of Christ.
The Easter bunny comes from the hare, another ancient pre-Christian symbol of fertility associated with spring. Anglo-Saxon mythology says Eostara changed her pet bird into a rabbit to entertain a group of children, and the rabbit laid brightly coloured eggs for them, which is why they are hidden in a nest or in the garden.
There are many Easter baking traditions, ranging from simnel cake, popular in Britain, to kulich, a traditional bread in Russia and the Ukraine. The simnel cake’s a rich fruitcake covered with a thick layer of almond paste, which is also traditionally baked as a layer into the middle of the cake. Eleven balls of marzipan are placed around the top to represent the eleven true disciples – excluding Judas.
The Finns and Swedish eat mammi or memma, a baked malt porridge, while in Naples they eat pastiera, a cake made from ricotta cheese and in the province of Salamanca, a meat pie called hornazo made from pork loin, chorizo sausage and hard boiled eggs. Ham tends to be more popular in the United States, where the custom was brought by Scandinavians and Eastern Europeans. Poland’s mazurki are sweet cakes made with honey and filled with nuts and fruit. Hot cross buns, made around Europe, are probably the most well known – spiced buns made with currants and leavened with yeast, carrying the symbol of the cross and containing no ingredients that were not allowed in the Lent fast.
It’s also traditional to eat fish on Good Friday in many traditions, an idea that comes from the early Christians, who decreed that Friday would be a fast day on which no meat was eaten because that was the day Christ was crucified.